SELECT DIAMOND

The weight of a diamond

The word "carat" derives its name from the carob seeds that people once used in ancient times to balance scales. This was standardised in 1907, when one carat became 0.2 grams. Furthermore, one carat is divided into 100 "points". Therefore, 25 points is ¼ carat, 50 points is ½ carat, and so on.

Diamonds are rare. The larger the diamond, the rarer it is. Larger diamonds, therefore, have a greater value per carat. For that reason, the price of a diamond rises exponentially with its size. That is not always to say, however, that the larger the diamond the more valuable it is, as this also depends upon the diamond´s other characteristics.

Diamond carat, therefore, refers to the weight of a diamond and not the physical size, although the two do of course go hand in hand with each other.

Don't get confused between CARATS and KARATS. "Carats" relates to diamond weight whilst "karats" relates to the purity of precious metals.

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The whiteness of a diamond

The most valuable diamonds are colorless. They allow most light to pass through the stone and create the most brilliance. However, very few diamonds are colorless, so most diamonds will have some yellow in them - the less yellow the better.

According to the International Diamond Grading System, diamond color begins at color D - which is the rarest white diamond possible - and goes all the way down to color Z, which is the most yellow.

At DeJoria, we only use the top 20% of available diamonds from around the world. Therefore, diamonds with a color grade of less than J are rejected.

D - "Exceptionally White" (the best) - A diamond of this color grade is highly prized, as a diamond with less color has never been found. This diamond is absolutely colorless.

E - "Exceptionally White" - A rare white diamond which is much sought after. Colorless.

F - "Rare White" - In a color F diamond, no color is visible to the untrained eye. F color diamonds display minimal color difference from D or E color diamonds but offer a lower price.

G - "White" - A diamond with G color has an extremely faint tint that is only noticeable to a trained gemologist. G color diamonds make for beautiful jewelry and they offer outstanding value, since they are less expensive than the colorless grades, but appear to the eye to be colorless when mounted.

H - "White" - This diamond offers an exceptional balance of color and cost. If you choose an H color grade diamond, you can buy a larger diamond for the same price as a higher color grade. The very slight tint is generally not noticeable.

I - "Slightly Tinted White" - This diamond, when cut to idea proportions, produces a warm brilliancy not found in the higher grade colors. I color diamonds are less expensive than other diamonds, so you can buy a larger diamond for the same price as a higher color grade.

J - "Slightly Tinted White" - This diamond, when cut to ideal proportions, produces a warm brilliancy not found in the higher grade colors. As the least expensive diamonds in the near colorless range, J color diamonds present the best value in diamond color, so you can buy a larger diamond for the price.

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The extent to which inclusions or marks are visible within a diamond

The clearer the diamond, the greater its brilliance, and the greater its value. Most diamonds have blemishes, called "inclusions" which are nature's birthmark of the stone. These can be tiny traces of carbon (black spots), air pockets (white spots) or other naturally occurring phenomena. According to the International Diamond Grading System, clarity starts at IF (Internally Flawless) and has several tiers.

At DeJoria, we only use the top 20% of available diamonds from around the world. Therefore, diamonds with a clarity grade of less than SI2 are rejected, meaning that your DeJoria diamond will not display any visible to the naked eye, even at our minimum standard.

IF - "Flawless", or "Internally Flawless" (the best) - This diamond has no internal identifying characteristics, even when viewed under a microscope at extreme magnification. Diamonds of this grade are extremely rare.

VVS1 - "Very, Very Slightly Included 1" - This diamond has very few, very tiny inclusions. The inclusions in this diamond are virtually unidentifiable even when viewed under a microscope at 60x magnification. Diamonds of this grade of clarity are rare.

VVS2 - "Very, Very Slightly Included 2" - This diamond has very few, very tiny inclusions. The inclusions in this diamond are virtually unidentifiable even when viewed under a microscope at 60x power magnification. Diamonds of this grade of clarity are rare.

VS1 - "Very Slightly Included 1" - This diamond has few, very small inclusions. The inclusions are very difficult to see under a 30x power magnification, and are almost never visible to the unaided eye. VS1 grade diamonds present an excellent value in clarity because they are typically free of visible blemishes, and they are less expensive than higher clarity grades.

VS2 - "Very Slightly Included 2" - This diamond has few, very small inclusions. The inclusions are very difficult to see under a 30x power magnification, and are almost never visible to the unaided eye. VS2 grade diamonds present an excellent value in clarity because they are typically free of visible blemishes, and they are less expensive than higher clarity grades.

SI1 - "Slightly Included 1" - The inclusions in this diamond can be visible at 10x power magnification. Inclusions in diamonds with SI1 grade clarity might be visible to the unaided eye. SI1 grade diamonds are not as rare as VS2 and VS1 grade diamonds, so they are less expensive and present great value.

SI2 - "Slightly Included 2" - The inclusions in this diamond can be visible at 10x power magnification. Inclusions in diamonds with SI2 grade clarity might be visible to the unaided eye. SI2 grade diamonds are not as rare as SI1 and VS2 grade diamonds, so they are less expensive and present great value.

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A collective group of characteristics that determine the relationship between a diamond's light performance, dimensions and finish.

Not all diamonds have cut grades. If you see lists of diamonds, all of which have cut grades, the chances are that the cut grade has been assigned to many of the diamonds by the retailer themselves, so tread with caution.

Cut grades are typically assigned to round diamonds only. The GIA, for instance, provide a cut grade only on round diamonds, and only on those round diamonds which have been graded since the start of 2006.

Put simply, the better the overall cut grade of a diamond, the better the brilliance of the diamond an therefore the more valuable the diamond.

If a diamond is too shallow or too deep, then the light dispersion is negatively affected. Therefore, the better the cut of the diamond towards Excellent or Ideal, the better.

At DeJoria, we only use the top 20% of available diamonds from across the world. Therefore, round diamonds with a cut grade of less than "Good" are rejected.

The gradings for diamond cut are commonly abbreviated as:
ID - Ideal
EX - Excellent
VS - Very Good
G - Good

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F - Fair (below DeJoria minimum standards)
P - Poor (below DeJoria minimum standards)

"Ideal" Cut

Representing the top 2% of all diamonds based on diamond cut, IDEAL cut diamonds reflect nearly all light that enters the diamond and are an exquisite and rare cut. AGS IDEAL cut is the equivalent of GIA EXCELLENT cut.

"Excellent" Cut

Representing the top 2% of all diamonds based on diamond cut, EXCELLENT cut diamonds reflect nearly all the light that enters the diamond and are an exquisite and rare cut. GIA EXCELLENT is the equivalent of AGS IDEAL cut.

"Very Good" Cut

Representing the top 12% of all diamonds based on diamond cut, VERY GOOD cut diamonds reflect nearly as much light as EXCELLENT or IDEAL cut diamonds, but for a lower price.

"Good" Cut

Representing the top 20% of all diamonds based on diamond cut, GOOD cut diamonds reflect most light that enters. As a result, they are much less expensive than VERY GOOD cut diamonds.

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The independent authority who have assessed a diamond

Whilst the acquisition of a diamond is an important expression of love or accomplishment, it also represents a major investment in time, energy and money. You need and deserve to feel confident in the integrity of you have acquired.

All DeJoria diamonds, however, are accompanied by a diamond grading report from one of these recognized laboratories from around the world.

	GIA (Gemological Institute of America) Established in 1931, the GIA is regarded as one of the world's leading and most respected diamond grading laboratories. It is a non-profit making organization, and it was the GIA who founded the international "4Cs" diamond grading system which is used across the world today.
	AGS (America Gem Society) The AGS has been in existence since 1996 and is a highly respected USA-based diamond grading laboratory.
	HRD (Hoge Raad Van Antwerpen) Based in Europe's diamond capital of Antwerp in Belgium, the HRD is a highly respected diamond grading laboratory.
	IGI (International Gemological Institute) With bases in all the main diamond cutting and trading centers of the world, the IGI is a respected diamond grading laboratory.

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The way the facets within a diamond are aligned with each other

Put simply, the better the symmetry grade, the better the internal light refraction inside the diamond, the more brilliant the diamond is and, therefore, the more valuable it is.

At DeJoria, we only use the top 20% of available diamonds from around the world. Therefore, diamonds with a symmetry grade of less than "Good" are rejected.

The gradings for diamond symmetry are commonly abbreviated as:
ID - Ideal
EX - Excellent
VS - Very Good
G - Good

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F - Fair (below DeJoria minimum standards)
P - Poor (below DeJoria minimum standards)

"Ideal" Symmetry

Representing the top 2% of all diamonds based on diamond symmetry, IDEAL symmetry represents perfect alignment of the facets within the diamond, thus fully optimizing the light refraction. AGS IDEAL symmetry is the equivalent of GIA EXCELLENT symmetry.

"Excellent" Symmetry

Representing the top 2% of all diamonds based on diamond symmetry, EXCELLENT symmetry represents perfect alignment of the facets within the diamond, thus fully optimizing the light refraction. GIA EXCELLENT symmetry is the equivalent of AGS IDEAL symmetry.

"Very Good" Symmetry

Representing the top 12% of all diamonds based on diamond symmetry, VERY GOOD symmetry indicates a superb alignment of the facets within the diamond, therefore allowing a high degree of light refraction.

"Good" Symmetry

Representing the top 20% of all diamonds based on diamond symmetry, GOOD symmetry indicates that the facets within the diamond are well aligned and provide excellent value. A GOOD symmetry grade is typical for fancy shaped diamonds such as princess cuts, emerald cuts and oval cuts, for example.

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The overall finish of a diamond

Generally speaking, the better the polish grade, the better the brilliance from the diamond and therefore, the more valuable the diamond.

At DeJoria, we only use the top 20% of available diamonds from around the world. Therefore, diamonds with a polish grade of less than "GOOD" are rejected.

The gradings for diamond symmetry are commonly abbreviated as:
ID - Ideal
EX - Excellent
VS - Very Good
G - Good

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F - Fair (below DeJoria minimum standards)
P - Poor (below DeJoria minimum standards)

"Ideal" Polish

Representing the top 2% of all diamonds based on diamond polish, IDEAL polish means that the facets of the diamond are perfectly smooth. AGS IDEAL polish is the equivalent of GIA EXCELLENT polish.

"Excellent" Polish

Representing the top 2% of all diamonds based on diamond polish, EXCELLENT polish means that the facets of the diamond are perfectly smooth. GIA EXCELLENT polish is the equivalent of AGS IDEAL polish.

"Very Good" Polish

Representing the top 12% of all diamonds based on diamond polish, VERY GOOD polish means that the facets of the diamond are extremely smooth, with very little difference between this and EXCELLENT polish, but sometimes providing better value.

"Good" Polish

Representing the top 20% of all diamonds based on diamond polish, GOOD polish means that the facets of the diamond are smooth, with little difference between this and VERY GOOD polish, but at a much cheaper price.

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The ratio of the depth of the diamond to its diameter, expressed as a %

If a diamond is too deep or too shallow, this will negatively affect the light dispersion inside the diamond and, therefore, the overall brilliance displayed by the stone.

Parameters for premium depth measurements are more accepted for round cut diamonds than for all other shapes of diamonds. Note that these parameters below are for guidelines only. Typically, however, the further you move away from these parameters, the less brilliance or sparkle the diamond displays, and therefore the less valuable the diamond.

	ROUND	Ideal Depth 58-63% / Fine Cut Depth 56-65%
	PRINCESS	Ideal Depth 64-75% / Fine Cut Depth 58-80%
	EMERALD	Ideal Depth 60-65% / Fine Cut Depth 58-69%
	OVAL	Ideal Depth 59-63% / Fine Cut Depth 58-65%
	MARQUISE	Ideal Depth 59-63% / Fine Cut Depth 58-65%
	PEAR	Ideal Depth 59-63% / Fine Cut Depth 58-65%

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The largest flat surface on the top of the diamond, expressed as a %

The table % refers to how much of the total width is occupied by the table. The table size determines the amount of brilliance, or white light, the diamond will reflect. If the table it too large or too small, it will negatively affect how light reflects up from the surface of the diamond.

Parameters for premium table measurements are more accepted for round cut diamonds than for all other shapes of diamonds. Note that these parameters are for guidelines only. Typically, however, the further you move away from these parameters, the less brilliance or sparkle the diamond displays, and therefore the less valuable the diamond.

	ROUND	Ideal Table 53-60% / Fine Cut Table 51-63%
	PRINCESS	Ideal Table 60-71% / Fine Cut Table 58-77%
	EMERALD	Ideal Table 60-64% / Fine Cut Table 58-69%
	OVAL	Ideal Table 54-61% / Fine Cut Table 52-64%
	MARQUISE	Ideal Table 54-61% / Fine Cut Table 52-64%
	PEAR	Ideal Table 54-61% / Fine Cut Table 52-64%

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A blue-white light effect that certain diamonds exhibit under ultra-violet light

Fluorescence can only occur in the presence of ultraviolet light (UV light) as fluorescence has little to no effect on the light display of a diamond under normal lighting conditions. Fluorescence is the effect of ultraviolet light on boron atoms that are found within certain diamonds.

Most light sources contain some measure of UV light within the color spectrum displayed, including natural sunlight, fluorescent lighting, and standard light bulbs. These are the light sources in which most people will be viewing their diamonds. Interestingly, it is for this reason that UV light is used by diamond mining operations to aid in finding diamonds in the first place.

Fluorescence in diamonds is graded as the following - None, Faint, Medium, Strong Blue or Very Strong Blue.

Typically, diamonds with strong or very strong fluorescence will be slightly less valuable than diamonds with none or faint fluorescence.

The gradings for diamond fluorescence are commonly abbreviated as:
N / NN - None
F / FB / FT - Faint
M / MED / MD / MB - Medium
S / SB / STB - Strong
VS / VSB - Very Strong
(Note - the "B" in the above abbreviations stands for "BLUE")

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The physical size of a diamond

The measurements of a diamond are always displayed in millimeters and reference is made to these measurements on a certified diamond's accompanying report.

Measurements for diamonds are displayed as Length x Width x Depth, with the exception of round diamonds (see below).

Round Diamonds

Due to their round shape, diamonds will not follow a typical Length x Width x Depth format, as they only have one diameter measurement. Or do they? In fact, round cut diamonds are given two diameter measurements since they are never quite round. Perfection is impossible since diamonds are created by nature and usually cut by imperfect human beings. Therefore, round diamond measurements are illustrated by - Minimum Diameter - Maximum Diameter x Depth

As an example, a round diamond with measurements of 6.50 - 6.56 x 4.72 means that its diameter varies by only 0.06mm, which is perfectly acceptable.

The Rest

All other diamond shapes follow the traditional measurement format of Length x Width x Depth.

This measurement effectively demonstrates the make of the diamond - in other words, the overall look and proportions of the diamond. With fancy shaped diamonds, it is important to consider the Length to Width ratio. You can ascertain this by simply dividing the length by the width and expressing the result as a proportion. Therefore, if you have a diamond which is 7.5mm in length and 5mm in width = Length to Width ratio of 1.50:1.00.

Look for the following Length to Width ratios with fancy shaped diamonds:

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The outer edge of a diamond

Whilst being a fairly minor consideration in relation to other characteristics of a diamond, specific reference to a diamond's girdle is made on most diamond grading certificates.

Ideal girdle thickness should range anywhere between Very Thin to Thick. However, as an example, a diamond with a perfect medium girdle around 90% of its diameter and a very thick girdle at one isolated point would receive a GIA girdle grade as "Medium to Very Thick", which would probably be perfectly acceptable as the fact that a tiny part of the girdle is Very Thick compared to the rest of the girdle is unlikely to detrimentally affect the overall appearance of the diamond. In general, diamonds that have girdle grades of Extremely Thin, Very Thick or Extremely Thick are not usually recommended.

The gradings for diamond girdle are commonly abbreviated as:
EXTN, ET, XT, EXN - Extremely Thin
VTN, VT, VETN - Very Thin
T, TN, TH - Thin
M, ME, MD, MED - Medium
STK, ST, SLTK, SLTH - Slightly Thick
T, TK, TH - Thick
VTK, VTH, VETK, VET - Very Thick
ET, EXTK, XT, XTK - Extremely Thick

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The facet at the tip of the pavilion of the diamond - in other words, the bottom tip of the diamond

A culet facet can vary in size. The preferred culet - graded as none, pointed or small - is not visible to the unaided eye. Diamonds that possess one of these culet grades are within the standards allowed to receive the highest cut grades from diamond laboratories around the world.

Diamonds that have culets graded as large to extremely large are less desirable because the culet facet may be visible to the naked eye when viewed through the table facet. Large culets may also indicate the culet is chipped or broken off.

The gradings for diamond culet are commonly abbreviated as:
N / NN / P - None
VS / VSM / VRSM - Very Small
S / SM / SML - Small
M / MR / MD / MM - Medium
L / LA / LG - Large
VL / VLG / VLRG - Very Large
EL / EX / EXLG - Extremely Large

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