Education
Sections on this page...
CARING FOR YOUR DIAMOND JEWELRY
DIAMOND INFORMATION
Diamonds are graded according to an international grading system founded some 70 years ago by the GIA. This equates the characteristics of a diamond to the "4Cs" of;
- CUT
- CARAT
- COLOR
- CLARITY
Cut
The cut of a diamond is often referred to as the shape of the diamond. Traditionally, diamonds are round in shape (round brilliant cut), although "fancy shaped" diamonds are becoming increasingly popular. "Fancy shape" refers to any shape of diamond other than round brilliant cut diamonds - therefore, princess cut diamonds (square), emerald cut diamonds (rectangular), oval cut diamonds, marquise cut diamonds, radiant cut diamonds and heart cut diamonds, for example, all fall into this "fancy shape" category.













The cut of a diamond can also relate to the quality of the cut from the rough diamond to the finished, polished diamond. In other words, how the diamond is proportioned and how the internal facets of the diamond are aligned. Depending upon which diamond laboratory has graded the diamond, an overall cut grade may be assigned to the diamond, although some diamond grading reports simply make reference to the symmetry, which of course goes hand in hand with the cut. For example, if the symmetry of a diamond is not good, then it means the facets of the diamond are not aligned symmetrically, which will have a detrimental effect on the overall light dispersion. Well aligned facets, on the other hand, maximize the brilliance and sparkle that a diamond displays.
Since January 2006, the GIA have assigned a specific cut grade to round brilliant cut diamonds only. Other shapes of diamonds do not necessarilly have an overall cut grade, so the symmetry grade provides the best indication of cut quality. Other factors are also important to the overall sparkle of a diamond, such as the depth, table, flourescence, girdle and culet.
At DeJoria, diamonds with a cut or symmetry grade lower than good are rejected.
Carat
The carat size relates to the actual weight of the diamond, not simply the physical size. Of course, the larger the physical size of the diamond, the greater the likelihood that it will be heavier, but this is not always the case.
Diamonds are rare. The larger the diamond, the rarer it is - larger diamonds, therefore, have a greater value per carat. For that reason, the price of a diamond rises exponentially with its size. That is not always to say, however, that the larger the diamond the more valuable it is compared with a smaller diamond. That is dependent upon other factors as well, namely its quality combinations, such as its color and clarity.
The round brilliant cut diamond images below are to scale to give you an idea of size vs carat weight.
The grid below shows the approximate dimensions of different shapes of diamonds at different carat weights:
| Approx Measurements In MM | |||||||
| CARAT WEIGHT | ROUND CUT | PRINCESS CUT | EMERALD CUT | MARQUISE CUT | OVAL CUT | PEAR CUT | HEART CUT |
| 0.25CT | 4.2 | 3.3 SQ | 4 X 3 | 5 X 3 | 5 X 3 | 4.5 X 2.5 | 3.9 |
| 0.33CT | 4.5 | 3.7 SQ | 5 X 3 | 6.5 X 3.5 | 5 X 2.75 | 5.25 X 3.25 | 4.5 |
| 0.50CT | 5.0 | 4.2 SQ | 6 X 3 | 8 X 4 | 5.5 X 4.5 | 6 X 4 | 4.8 |
| 0.75CT | 5.9 | 4.8 SQ | 6.5 X 4.5 | 9 X 4.5 | 7 X 5 | 7 X 5 | 5.6 |
| 1.00CT | 6.5 | 5.25 SQ | 7 X 5 | 10 X 5 | 7.5 X 5.5 | 8 X 5 | 6.0 |
| 1.25CT | 7.0 | 5.9 SQ | 7.5 X 5.5 | 10.5 X 5 | 8 X 6 | 8.5 X 5.5 | 6.5 |
| 1.50CT | 7.5 | 6.0 SQ | 8 X 6 | 11 X 5 | 8.5 X 6.5 | 9 X 6 | 6.9 |
| 1.75CT | 7.9 | 6.25 SQ | 8.25 X 6.25 | 11.5 X 5.5 | 9 X 6 | 9.5 X 6.5 | 7.3 |
| 2.00CT | 8.2 | 6.5 SQ | 8.5 X 6.5 | 12 X 6 | 9 X 7 | 10 X 7 | 7.5 |
| 2.25CT | 8.5 | 7.0 SQ | 8.75 X 6.75 | 12.5 X 6 | 9.25 X 7.25 | 11 X 7 | 7.9 |
| 2.50CT | 8.9 | 7.5 SQ | 9 X 7 | 13 X 5.5 | 9.5 X 7.5 | 12 X 7 | 8.4 |
| 2.75CT | 9.0 | 8.0 SQ | 9.5 X 7.5 | 13 X 6 | 9.75 X 7.75 | 12.25 X 7.5 | 8.6 |
| 3.00CT | 9.4 | 8.25 SQ | 10 X 8 | 14 X 7 | 10 X 8 | 12.5 X 7.75 | 8.9 |
Color
The most valuable diamonds are colorless. Diamond color begins at D for rare white diamonds, and goes through to Z. Around color I/J, diamonds start to display a slight yellow tint.
- D - "Exceptionally White": (the best) - A diamond of this color grade is highly prized, as a diamond with less color has never been found. The grade of this diamond is absolutely colorless.
- E - "Exceptionally White": This grade diamond is colorless to the naked eye. Only a trained gemologist using special equipment can determine any color difference between a D and E color diamond.
- F - "Rare White": In a color F diamond, no color is visible to the naked eye. F color diamonds display minimal color difference from D or E color diamonds, but offer a lower price.
- G - "White": A diamond with G color has an extremely faint tint that is only noticeable to a trained gemologist. G color diamonds make for beautiful diamond jewelry and they offer outstanding value, since they are less expensive as the colorless grades, but appear to the eye to be colorless when mounted.
- H - "White": This diamond offers an exceptional balance of color and cost. If you choose a color H diamond, you can buy a larger diamond for the same price as a higher color grade, as the very slight tint is generally not noticeable.
- I - "Slightly Tinted White": This diamond, when cut to ideal proportions, produces a warm brilliancy not found in the higher color grades. I color diamonds are less expensive than other diamonds, so you can buy a larger diamond for the same price as a higher color grade.
- J - "Slightly Tinted White": This diamond, when cut to ideal proportions, produces a warm brilliancy not found in the higher color grades. As the least expensive diamonds in the near colorless range, J color diamonds present the best value in diamond color, so you can buy a larger diamond for the price.
At DeJoria, diamonds with a color grade lower than color J are rejected.
Clarity
The clearer the diamond, the greater the brilliance of the diamond and the greater its value. All diamonds - except internally flawless diamonds - have inclusions. Commonly referred to as "nature's birthmark" of the diamond, inclusions can be anything from tiny black pinpoints in the diamond, through to white feather or crystal effects. The key to diamond purchasing is to minimize the number and size of inclusions in your diamond.
- IF - "Flawless" or "Internally Flawless": (the best) - This diamond has no internal identifying characteristics, even when viewed under a microscope at extreme magnification. Diamonds of this grade of clarity are extremely rare.
- VVS1 - "Very, Very Slightly Included": This grade of diamond has very few, very tiny inclusions. The inclusions in this diamond are virtually unidentifiable even when viewed under a microscope at 60x power magnification. Diamonds of this grade of clarity are very rare.
- VVS2 - "Very, Very Slightly Included": This diamond has very few, very tiny inclusions. The inclusions in this diamond are virtually unidentifiable even when viewed under a microscope at 60x power magnification. Diamonds of this grade of clarity are very rare.
- VS1 - "Very Slightly Included": This diamond has very few, very small inclusions. The inclusions are very difficult to see under a 30x power magnification, and are almost never visible to the naked eye. VS1 grade diamonds present an excellent value in clarity because they are typically free of visible blemishes, and they are less expensive than higher clarity grades.
- VS2 - "Very Slightly Included": This diamond has few, very small inclusions. The inclusions are very difficult to see under a 30x power magnification and are almost never visible to the naked eye. VS2 graded diamonds present an excellent value in clarity because they are typically free of visible blemishes, and they are less expensive than higher clarity grades.
- SI1 - "Slightly Included": The inclusions in this diamond can be visible at 10x power magnification. Inclusions in diamonds with SI grade clarity might be visible to the naked eye. SI1 graded diamonds are not as rare as VS1 and VS2 graded diamonds, so they are less expensive and present great value.
- SI2 - "Slightly Included": The inclusions in this diamond can be visible at 10x power magnification. Inclusions in diamonds with SI grade clarity might be visible to the naked eye. SI2 graded diamonds are not as rare as SI1 and VS2 graded diamonds, so they are less expensive and present great value.
At DeJoria, diamonds with a clarity grade lower than SI2 are rejected.
DIAMOND GRADING REPORTS
Whilst the acquisition of diamond jewelry is an important expression of love or accomplishment, it also represents a major investment in time, energy and money. You need and deserve to feel confident in the integrity of what you've acquired. After all, whilst two gems may LOOK identical to the untrained eye, they may be quite different in quality....and worlds apart in value.
The only way to ensure the quality of your diamond is to purchase a diamond accompanied with an independent diamond grading report. We work with the GIA, AGS, IGI and EGL USA as these are some of the most respected and trusted diamond laboratories in the world.
GIA - GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA - www.gia.edu
The GIA is known for having the most strict, consistent and unbiased systems for grading diamonds. Diamonds that are supplied with these diamond grading reports are the most highly valued in the industry as their quality is considered guaranteed. Indeed, it was the GIA who, over 70 years ago, founded the international diamond grading system which is today used across the world. The GIA provides 2 types of report:

GIA diamond dossier - This is a compact grading report issued for diamonds weighing less than one carat. The most advanced technology available is used to assess the authenticity and quality of your diamond. The dossier includes the GIA's authoritative analysis of your diamond's 4Cs - Cut, Carat, Color and Clarity. Plus, as an added benefit, the diamond bears the microscopic laser inscription of the dossier's identification number, connecting the diamond with your report.GIA diamond grading report - This is considered by fine jewelers and international auction houses as being the world's premier gemological credential. The report is issued for diamonds of one carat upwards, of all shapes, and provides the most comprehensive analysis of a diamond's quality. As well as outlining your diamond's 4Cs, it also provides a diagram of your diamond's characteristics.
AGS - AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY - www.agslab.com
The AGS has been issuing diamond grading reports since 1996 and is one of the world's premier reports. With an AGS diamond grading document, you are assured that the grade of the diamond is equal to its quality. As the consumer, you are empowered with detailed information about your diamond, and you can rest assured that the report is one of the industry's most thorough and consistent.
IGI - INTERNATIONAL GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE - www.igiworldwide.com
Founded in 1975, the IGI is one of the world's foremost diamond laboratories. Each diamond is scientifically analyzed by several gemologists who, using the latest state-of-the-art equipment, provide an accurate description of the characteristics of the diamond and quality of its cut. The IGI issues approximately 1 million diamond grading reports each year.
EGL USA - EUROPEAN GEMOLOGICAL LABORATORY - www.eglusa.com
EGL USA is one of the largest and oldest independent gemological institutions focusing on gemstone certification and research. Originally part of an international network founded in Europe in 1974, EGL USA became independently owned in 1986 and today has laboratories in New York, Los Angeles, Vancouver and Toronto.
JEWELRY APPRAISALS
We want our customers to be not only impressed by the quality of our service and product, but we also want you to be 100% confident that you have made a wise and
prudent purchase. We are proud of our range of diamond jewelry and likewise want you to be proud to wear it.
Therefore, we submit all DeJoria diamond engagement rings for an independent jewelry appraisal at Gemological Laboratory Services (GLS) - a private, non-bias, independent grading laboratory which has been grading diamonds and appraising diamond jewelry in the USA for over 20 years.
The fully qualified diamond appraisers and gemologists at GLS use state-of-the-art scientific, visual and electronic techniques to ensure that all estimates are accurately calculated for maximum retail replacement value.
The appraisal document provides a full description of the item and an estimated retail replacement value, and comes in a laminated wallet, which we advise you keep in a secure place, together with your original diamond grading report.
PRECIOUS METALS & HALLMARKING
When purchasing diamond jewelry, of course you want your diamonds to be displayed at their very best.
WHITE GOLD & YELLOW GOLD
We offer UK hallmarked white and yellow gold in 18kt - the UK standard. Both of these metals are perfectly suited to diamond jewelry.
PLATINUM
We offer UK hallmarked 950 grade platinum - the UK standard. In recent years, platinum has experienced an enormous boom in popularity due to its durability and integrity, making it an ideal precious metal for diamond jewelry. All metal scratches. However, be assured that if your platinum scratches, it is not a fault of the manufacturing process, it is simply a property of the metal. The scratch on a platinum item is merely a displacement of metal with no loss of integrity. Platinum is 30 times rarer than gold which explains its higher price. Indeed, it is estimated that if all the platinum in the world were poured into a single Olympic sized swimming pool, it would scarcely be deep enough to cover your ankles and although made into jewelry, is considered an excellent investment, no matter what form.
HALLMARKING
The hallmarking process is unique to the UK (it does not exist in the US) and is a legal requirement for precious metal jewelry sold in the UK, for the purposes of consumer
protection. Hallmarking in the UK dates back over 700 years, when Henry III commanded the Mayor of London to appoint six faithful and discreet goldsmiths who would be responsible for ensuring standards for gold and silver articles. A hallmark is a small marking stamped on the item which shows the article has been independently tested and guarantees that it confirms to all legal standards of purity and is carried out by one of four UK Assay Offices in London, Birmingham, Sheffield or Edinburgh. For US customers, your piece of jewelry will be hallmarked, as all our rings and jewelry mountings are handmade by our master craftsmen in the UK, so you have peace of mind in the purity and quality of your precious metal.
NICKEL-FREE
Being as all our mountings are handmade in the UK, they are, by law, classed as nickel-free. Nickel is the most common cause of allergic contact dermatitis of the skin. 10% of the UK adult population, for example, have become sensitized to nickel. Nickel may cause a minor allergic irritation for the majority of individuals, but some people experience a severe significant reaction.
The main problem with nickel arises for nickel-sensitive patients who develop hand dermatitis. Nickel can easily permeate through the skin of their hands resulting in a perpetuation of the dermatitis. As nickel is such a universally found substance, it is almost impossible for sufferers to avoid contact with nickel on hands.
UK Nickel Regulations enforce the European Nickel Directive which was initiated by dermatologists. They believe that sensitization is likely to be caused by ear or body piercing and perpetuated by prolonged contact with nickel.
RING SIZE HELP
ARE YOU PURCHASING WITHOUT HER KNOWLEDGE?
To establish her ring size, simply click here to download our RING SIZE RULER (PDF format).
ARE YOU PURCHASING WITH HER KNOWLEDGE?
She may already know her ring size. This is the ideal scenario. If not, click here to download our RING SIZE TAPE (PDF format).
Complimentary Ring Re-Sizing Service
Whilst of course it is always best to get the ring size correct first time, we realize that it is not always possible to ascertain the correct size precisely. Therefore, our master jewelers will re-size your ring if required, to ensure you have an exact fit. If your ring does require re-sizing, then you will find instructions on how to do this in the accompanying paperwork with your purchase. Whilst this is a complimentary re-sizing service, please note that the customer is responsible for all associated shipping costs. Please allow 10 working days for all re-sizing work.
ENGRAVING
We are delighted to be able to offer our valued customers an engraving service. There may be a small additional charge for this service which, of course, will depend upon
the length and complexity of the engraving required. Typically, we are able to engrave up to a maximum of 10 characters onto your item, again depending upon the design.
If you would like engraving, please speak with a member of our customer services team.
CARING FOR YOUR DIAMOND JEWELRY
Of course, your diamond jewelry is important to you. Therefore, you should take steps to ensure you care for it as much as possible. Whilst diamonds are the hardest
substance known to man, they still require care and attention.
Whilst gold and platinum provide extremely secure settings for diamond jewelry, severe knocks or blows could dislodge the diamond. Therefore, you should minimize the risk of this by not wearing your diamond jewelry when doing manual activities such as gardening, home improvements, washing up or sporting activities, for example. Over time, dirt can get underneath diamonds in their settings. Therefore, it is advisable to occasionally use a jewelry cleaning cloth - this way, your diamond jewelry will continue to sparkle the same as the day you purchased it.
GLOSSARY
- Appraisals: This is often carried out on a diamond engagement ring or item of diamond jewelry following production and prior to shipping to the client. It is an assessment of the item, normally carried out by an independent body, with the objective of providing complete peace of mind to the client.
- Asscher Cut: A square emerald cut diamond with very canted corners, so that it often resembles an octagon.
- Blemishes: Clarity grading systems grade the diamond according to the presence or absence of internal and external characteristics, generally referred to as flaws. They are called inclusions when internal, and blemishes when external.
- Bow Tie Effect: Most commonly found in marquise cut diamonds, this is a black area within a diamond which takes the appearance of a bow tie. This effect is a result simply of the shape of the diamond and the facets within it and is found in the vast majority of marquise cut diamonds.
- Brilliance: This relates to the amount of sparkle displayed by the diamond.
- Brilliant Cut: This term relates to the shape of a round diamond - usually called a round brilliant cut diamond.
- Carat: The unit measurement of diamond weight.
- Certification: An independent assessment of the characteristics of a diamond, relating to the 4Cs of Cut, Carat, Color and Clarity.
- Channel Set: A term used to describe a number of diamonds set between 2 rows of metal. This is most commonly found in diamond jewelry such as diamond eternity rings, for example.
- Clarity: Relates to the amount of inclusions in a diamond. The fewer inclusions in the diamond, the better.
- Color: The international diamond grading system grades color as being D (the whitest of all) down to Z (yellow). The closer the diamond to color D, the whiter it is.
- Crown: The crown is also called the top of the stone. This is simply the upper portion of the stone ie the part above the girdle.
- Culet: The culet is the lowest part or point of the stone. It may be missing in some stones, which can indicate damage.
- Cut: The cut relates to either the shape of the diamond or the proportions of the diamond.
- Depth: The depth percentage represents the depth of the diamond - the distance from the table to the culet - as a percentage of the width of the diamond. This is particularly important in round brilliant cut diamonds to ensure maximum brilliance.
- Diamonds: Diamond is the hardest natural substance known to man.
- Emerald Cut: Rectangular in shape, the emerald cut diamond has fewer facets than other cuts of diamond, with step cuts.
- Fancy Color: Diamonds exist in many colors apart from the traditional white. Yellow, pink, purple and red diamonds exist, all of which generally command premium prices as a result of their scarcity.
- Feather: A type of inclusion that is present in certain diamonds.
- Fire: A term commonly used instead of brilliance to describe the amount of light and sparkle in a diamond.
- Flaw: Another term used to describe a blemish or inclusion in a diamond. All diamonds have flaws, except for internally-flawless diamonds.
- Florescence: A characteristic of a diamond. Florescence relates to the amount of blue the diamond displays when under ultra-violet light. Flourescence is generally graded as None, Faint, Medium, Strong or Very Strong.
- Four Cs: The international system of grading diamonds uses the 4Cs of Cut, Carat, Color and Clarity to assess a diamonds characteristics.
- Girdle: The girdle is the edge or border of the stone that forms its perimeter. It is the edge formed where the top portion of the diamond meets the bottom portion.
- Grading Report: Also known as a diamond certificate.
- Ideal: Predominantly for round brilliant cut diamonds, there exists a set of parameters which will result in the maximum display of brilliance in a diamond. Ideal cut (or Excellent cut, depending upon the grading laboratory) is the best possible cut of all.
- Inclusions: These are the common name for the blemishes in a diamond and are also known as 'nature's birthmark' of the stone. They can take the form of a white feather, crystal or black pinpoints in the stone. The less inclusions in a diamond, the better.
- Loupe: The industry term for a jeweler's magnifying glass. These are particularly useful for analyzing inclusions in a diamond.
- Pave Set: The term used to describe a multitude of small diamonds set into precious metal, set so close together in volume that it looks like the item is 'diamond encrusted', and no metal is showing.
- Pavilion: The pavilion is the bottom portion of the stone, the part from the girdle to the "point" at the bottom.
- Polish: The term used to describe the finish of a diamond.
- Princess Cut: The term used for a square diamond.
- Proportions: The way the diamond is proportioned affects the amount of sparkle or brilliance generated.
- Round Brilliant Cut: The most traditional - and popular - shape of diamond.
- Setting: This term describes the precious metal that the diamonds are set into. It could be a ring, earrings, pendant, bracelet or necklace, amongst others.
- Symmetry: A term often used to describe the way diamonds are proportioned.
- Table: The table is the flat top of the stone and is the stone's largest facet, often called the face. The term table spread is used to describe the width of the table facet, often expressed as a percentage of the total width of the stone.
